This past weekend we transitioned from the strength phase of our training schedule to the power phase. This phase focuses on improving our muscular power (being able to generate a large amount of force in a short period of time) and contact strength (being able to quickly latch onto a hold). It’s all about moving dynamically, in a controlled manner, which is not easy to do!
A large part of power training focuses on climbing-specific plyometric exercises: we want to train our muscles to exert maximum force very quickly and to extend/contract our muscles very quickly, as well. The climbing goal is to “power through” a tricky sequence on (often) small holds.
We’ll be using two popular plyometrics for our power recruitment, Campus Training and Limit Bouldering.
For the non-climbers, campus training is kind of like climbing a ladder without using your feet. The ladder rungs on a campus board come in 3 different depths (thick ~35 mm deep, thin ~ 20 mm deep) and will usually have different spacings between each rung. This training is a purely plyometric exercise that requires you to generate a lot of power for each move, and requires the fingers to quickly contract in order to catch each ladder rung. It’s difficult, requiring a lot of concentration, high energy levels and a good technique; it hurts when you miss a hold and fall!
Many people use strength to make their way up the campus board (they move very slowly), but the purpose here is to train power, so you want to move quickly (and smoothly!) up the board. I need to mentally prepare myself before each round, and set myself a metronome rhythm to follow, or else my body wants to naturally use strength, not power. So many things to think about!!
Jonty has been doing exercises on the campus board for a few years now, and is pretty great at it. I just started last year (and it shows!), so I’m still working on it 🙂 Our training phases are usually less than a month long, so we may see slight improvements from the beginning to the end of a given phase, but generally, big improvements take years (at least, from our experience)!
We keep track of our campus routine each session, to mark our improvement. We’ve been keeping track of our routines for a few years, so it’s always interesting to go back in time to see how much we’ve progressed.
Some of the exercises we do include:
- Matching Ladders
- Basic Ladders
- Bumps, or Go-Agains (one hand bumps up the rungs until you can’t go any higher)
- Double-Dynos (skipping one or more rungs)
Each round on the campus board is followed by 3 minutes of rest, switching the leading hand for each round. So I will complete about 18 total rounds of campus exercises, Jonty will complete about 26 total rounds. The downside to campusing is that it’s not that specific to climbing, i.e. being great at it does not translate in to huge improvements in climbing ability. Still, it looks cool seeing someone do double-dynos 🙂
Limit bouldering (LB) is great for a few reasons: it’s completely sport-specific (because you’re actually climbing!), you can improve your power and contact strength, and you can focus on things like technique and body tension while climbing.
The main idea behind Limit Bouldering is to climb short problems that have one or two very difficult moves, right at your limit. If possible, the moves should mimic crux moves specific to your goal route, or work on holds/moves that are specific weaknesses. The more dynamic the moves the better, as this really helps to improve contact strength. Finding the right move(s) to try can be tricky, requiring a lot of self-knowledge to understand what your limit-moves are! When someone says “give 110% on trying one single move”, it sounds easy to do, but I find it takes practice to really push myself. It’s something I’m trying to work on 🙂
This part of the training session should:
- Include 2 to 4 “problems”, each with one or two very powerful moves that cannot be mastered in a single training session
- Try the move 4 or 5 times, waiting 2 – 5 minutes between attempts
- Rest 5 – 10 minutes between each problem
For both campus and limit bouldering sessions, the warm-up looks the same:
- ARC traversing (10 – 15 minutes)
- Warm-up Boulder Ladder (25 minutes, start easy and go up in the grades)
- Hard Bouldering (25 – 30 minutes, problems just above flash level)
Limit Bouldering takes us around 60 minutes (which include rest times), and the Campus session takes 55 to 75 minutes, depending on the number of rounds we complete. So, in total, a training day takes us well over 2 hours. Not an insignificant amount of time, if you still work full-time!! This usually means a late dinner for us 🙂
The aim is to work on generating power through plyometric exercises, so it’s important to rest enough in between attempts, whether on the campus board or with the limit bouldering. We find it works best if we set a timer, so we don’t get distracted but also to make sure we rest enough. As soon as you feel your power starting to diminish and you feel you’re using more strength, trying to “muscle-through” an exercise, it’s probably time to stop the training.
Campus training, as fun as it looks, does not translate to rock climbing as specifically as limit bouldering does. Also, because campus training is extremely high-intensity and stressful on the joints, the program we follow recommends to keep the ratio of bouldering to campus board as 5:1 (so for every 5 minutes of bouldering done, complete 1 minute of campusing). This is easy enough to do, as we spend almost 60 minutes of “warm-up” climbing before a campus session.
This past weekend we completed our first campus session and will follow this rough schedule for the next few weeks: