Training for Climbing: Power and Visualization

Last week I started into the Power Training phase of our 17-week training schedule. I’m following the same plan as last time (you can find that post here, if you’d like to see what I got up to). These sessions include a thorough warm-up, followed by some campus board work.

For me, campus training requires a lot of mental visualization and commitment. I find the exercises difficult, and a lot of it comes down to my mental preparation. The movements on the campus board do not come naturally to me, and in the past it has felt like it’s has taken almost the entire 4-week phase to improve my skills to a level I’m happy with, only to move onto the next phase and lose any gains I’ve made!

So, I tried to be more proactive about hitting the ground running this time, and I did a few things to set me up to be more successful for my power training:

  1. Prepare during the Strength Phase: I decided to use the campus board for my finger strength phase, instead of the hangboard. The intention was to prepare my body (and mind!) for campusing, as well as improving my finger strength.
  2. Document: At the end of the last power phase in August, I wrote down a few notes for things I knew I’d forget. Things like “This order for exercises worked well”.
  3. Visualization: I also wrote notes for what I was thinking about when I succeeded at a campus ladder. Things like “Keep a steady tempo”, “Think about bouncing up the campus board”, etc.

This approach has really helped! On the first campus session, I finished almost as strong as my last session in August! Wahoo!

Some of the things I think about which I find improve my success rate are:

  • Each move up the campus board should be a little hop or bounce.
  • Even if I slow down towards the top, make sure each move up is still a quick power pull-up.
  • With each move, make sure my shoulders and body don’t sag between moves.
  • Focus on where my  hand is in relation to my shoulder (this gives me a consistent point to pull-up to, where I know I can easily reach the next rung, even if I tire).

Yesterday, I was able to ladder all the way up to the top of the campus board multiple times, and I was very pleased with myself 🙂 I think a big part of that was my visualization and prep during the Strength Phase, so my mind and body knew what was coming!

Jonty, in week 13 of knee recovery, is able to walk now (wahoo!), but is still not strong enough to withstand landing on his leg, so he’s continuing to work on finger and upper-body strength. One of his long term goals was to be able to do a muscle-up on gymnastic rings; this requires working on dips:

… and quick pull-ups:

… and putting it together, a muscle-up with a bit of aid to start:

He also decided to work towards being able to do one-finger pull-ups, here’s his latest climbing party-trick 🙂

This power phase will take us through another few weeks, then transition into the power-endurance phase. We’re thinking of putting together a few before / after videos to showcase any improvements we’ve made, so perhaps you’ll see those pop up in another few weeks.

Happy Power Training!