Druid Stones on Video

As promised, we have a few videos of several boulder problems we were working on at the Druid Stones on Thursday and Friday.

When we get to an area, the guide-book will give an overview map of the different areas, and a general description of each boulder and the routes on them. The modern guide-books will have colour pictures of the boulders, with little pictures indicating the given route. Beside the picture of the boulder will be a description of the route, with a hardness grade, telling you where to start and where to finish. Then it’s up to the climber to figure out the movement sequences they need to take to get from the bottom of the rock to the top.

Jonty was the first big sender of the day! He started working his inspiration line after a few warm-up problems.

The problem: Arch Drude
The grade: V5-ghosty
The scoop: Sit start at right and make a hard move up past a hueco to gain good holds. Make a long move to a surprising finish.
The quality: 3 out of 4 stars

ClimbEatCycleRepeat.com | Druid Stones bouldering guidebook

Guide book picture and description of Arch Drude, V5.

After he sent the first problem, he moved onto the second problem. It started in a different spot, but joined up with the previous problem and finished in the same place.

The problem: Arch Drude, Left Start
The grade: V5-ghosty
The scoop: Sit start at a right-facing sidepull as for Flawed Genius. Climb diagonally up right with hard moves to start, and then launch rightward to join the top of the regular Arch Drude (the previous line).
The quality: 3 out of 4 stars

He missed out on sending the final problem on the boulder (Flawed Genius) failing on the top-out due to fatigue, but sent it first-attempt on Friday!! Unfortunately, we didn’t have the foresight to film this one…

The problem: Flawed Genius
The grade: V5
The scoop: Sit start at a right-facing sidepull. Climb up with some hard moves at first to gain a hueco up and left. A hidden flatty just above the hueco on the upper slab allows a move left to gain the top.
The quality: 1 out of 4 stars

On Friday, I wanted to try a fun-looking problem on the Thunder Wall. Both Jonty and I sent the problem. I found the top-out quite tricky / scary for me, so I was pleased to finish it.

The problem: Thunder
The grade: V3
The scoop: The original line on the wall begins toward the right side, just left of the undercut section. Sit start on very low holds and make a couple of hard pulls to gain jugs leading to a fun finale.
The quality: 3 out of 4 stars

ClimbEatCycleRepeat.com | Moira completing Thunder V3 Druid Stones, Bishop CA

Moira, taking a moment to catch her breath at the top.

The final problem we both worked on was on The Wave boulder.

The problem: Suspenders
The grade: V5
The scoop: Sit start at a right-facing flake, very low, as for the previous line. Move right and up the wall by long moves on good edges. Great climbing on good rock.
The quality: 3 out of 4 stars

I was the first one to finish this problem, my first V5 of the trip, so I was pretty pleased!

ClimbEatCycleRepeat.com | Druid Stones bouldering guidebook

Suspenders, V5.

Jonty tried it, finding the start tricky, then when all looked good, the worst happened…

Old-man “Dickens” came to visit, and left Jonty with a whole lotta Hurt!! This is what a flapper looks like, under tape.

ClimbEatCycleRepeat.com | Jonty's climber fingers after working Suspenders V5, Druid Stones, Bishop CA

Flappers for Jonty. Booo.

And, after being brave enough to remove the tape the following morning…

ClimbEatCycleRepeat.com | Jonty's climber fingers

Jonty’s flapper after Day 2. With taping, he should be good to climb!

Our plan is to head back to the Druid Stones on Monday to give these un-finished problems another attempt! Fingers crossed we’ll have videos showing successful attempts posted in a few days!!

2 Comments

  1. Sounds windy!!! Old man dickens… love that. Flappers are the worst.

    Moira – your hair looks awesome!!

    Reply

    1. It was really windy (and cold) up there! But made for some fantastic friction 🙂 Thanks (for the hair). I desperately want it cut again – growing too fast!!

      Reply

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